Valentine's Day at the DMZ

It's about 7:45 on Tuesday morning, which means four nights down and five nights to go. I've created a backlog of things to blog about but the days have been quite full and I need my sleep. There is also the problem of my internet not working on my laptop I hauled all the way here, so I am forced to type this in iHouse's computer room.

Saturday, Valentine's Day, was spent at the DMZ and JSA (Joint Security Area). In our dirty clothes we made our way onto the subway, with our newly brought and convenient T Money passes. Out tour left from the Lotte Hotel, and our English language guide was named Joy. Our first stop on the tour was the included lunch, a buffet with an interesting mixture of western and Korean food. Then it was off to Imjingak (the Freedom Bridge) where POWs were exchanged after the war. Imjingak was an interesting mixture of memorial and amusement park, as there was a large swinging ride called "Super Viking" and a carousel, just down the hill from the memorial. They were also blasting Korean enka, which Ellie informed me was about Pusan. Joy told us that Imjingak was the furthest South Koreans could go without special permission.

We were on the JSA tour so we weren't able to see the Third Tunnel, dug by the North Koreans and penetrating 435 m south of the Military Demarcation Line. But our trip to the JSA was an incredible experience, starting with the military check points, where our passports were checked by both a ROK soldier (with an AK47 slung across his back) and an American soldier (with a pistol on his hip). A third soldier checked to see if our clothes were appropriate and everyone passed. Had someone not, the tour bus was equipped with extra clothes.

Before we entered the JSA, we stopped at Camp Bonifas for a briefing, which was essentially a history lesson. Our group kept themselves entertained by trying to name all of the flags of the sixteen countries who fought with the UN. We also had to sign a declaration, stating that we were informed that entry into the JSA meant the "possibility of injury or death as a direct result of enemy action."

The JSA itself was quiet and eerie, which only enhanced by the overcast day. Moving between locations was down in lines of two, led by our American soldier supervisor. From the Freedom House Pagoda, we could see into North Korea, and the lone North Korean soldier guarding at that moment. Then we went into the MAC conference room, where military meetings regarding the supervision of the Armistice are held. Here we were able to cross into "North Korea," and took photos with the ROK military police in their aviators and green coats with their black fur collars. The military police stand in a modified Tae Kwon Do stance and maintain an expressionless facade.

Our last outdoor stop was Checkpoint Charlie, where we could view the "Bridge of No Return" and Kaesong, which the South Koreans call the "propoganda village." We stopped at the "Bridge of No Return" but were unable to leave the bus as there were not enough soldiers for our large group. It was here that the 1976 Axe Murder Incident occured, and there is a memorial for the two slain American officers.

Then it was back to Seoul, where we enjoyed very spicy Korean food, which caused more than one of us indigestion, and awaiting our luggage, which was finally dropped off at 11 pm.